no place like cuba

It’s hard to detail our trip to Cuba without coming across partly pessimistic. Yet, our experience was far from negative, only somewhat different to the preconceived rustic experience we had fostered. It is true, Havana is a city of once colloquial majesty where, now, peeling paint, crumbling buildings and vintage cars reflect the struggles of the country. However, despite its perishing exterior, Havana is undeniably full of life. One only need explore the lanes of historic Habana Vieja where locals mix with tourists to create a buzz equal in scale to the stifling humidity. Here you can enjoy a mojito in Cathedral Square, seek out Hemingway’s favourite local spots and purchase cigars and rum. Don’t expect any bargains though; State prices, as we were informed a number of times, are non-negotiable. In many cases it’s hard to know whether this is the truth or if it is part of the wider conspiracy to sap tourists dry of every cent they might have on their person. We learned quickly, such is tourism in a socialist society. At the famous Coppelia ice-cream parlour we were relegated to the tourist area, taxi drivers conspired to over charge us on more than one occasion and walking out of the hotel meant we would be forced to decline numerous offers of cigars, rum and personal guided tours. Then there were moments when Havana redeemed itself by way of an unbelievably delicious dinner at Paladar Huron Azul (restaurant in someone’s home) and hanging out at the Malecon in front of our hotel, Nacional de Cuba. The Malecon, Havana’s sea wall, is where locals flock in the evening with food and drink to hang out with friends; after a few days in Havana we were happy to do as the locals and enjoy a cheap night out.
Notably, wherever you go, there is music. Cuban culture prides itself on its musical heritage and this is no different in Havana or Varadero where we spent the second half of our visit. From string quartets serenading us while we dined (and subsequently trying to sell us their CDs) to Cuban jazz in the lobby to dance beats while the resort guests did their stretches on the beach, silence is a rarity yet the constant buzz contributes to Cuba’s unique appeal. While our expectations of azure water and white beaches were met, the countless resorts that line the shores of this region highlight Cuba’s trend toward mass tourism and any illusions that this island is “undiscovered” are dismissed on arrival. But then, who doesn’t enjoy a bit of all-inclusive luxury spent on deck-chairs by day and in the Piano Bar by night?
In a country where taxi drivers earn more than doctors it is not hard to understand why tourists are so welcomed and cherished; yet one can’t help but feel the smiles burning holes in your wallet. Would we return? Probably not, but Cuba has left an impression like no other place could…and a tan to match, which makes any holiday worthwhile.